Ailea's Place - Choosing Your Sheltie

~ Choosing Your Sheltie ~

The information contained here is lengthy, for which I apologize, but all of it is important in the process of acquiring your sheltie. Please do not let my verbosity interfere with reading what I have to say about responsible breeding. The more information you have, the better armed you are against the uncaring, unknowledgeable, ignorant breeders who wish only to take your money.

Please give this acquisition a lot of thought. Be honest with yourself in regards to what you will and will not accept as breed characteristics. Consider why you want a dog. To be a pet? To compete in obedience or other performance sport? To use while hunting? To guard and protect property, and attack if necessary? What do you want your dog to look like? What size and weight would you prefer? What kind of energy level? Temperament? It is extremely important for you to know what you want in a dog, and how you want your dog to look and behave, how much care the breed will require and whether you can provide for it adequately. If what you really want is a Poodle (does not shed), or a Coon Hound (hunts), or a Yorkshire Terrier (tiny, 'toy' size), then a sheltie is not for you! If you cannot abide long dog hair, higher energy, vocalizing (shelties do bark), or you expect a sheltie to attack aggressively, then a sheltie is not for you. Better to know now, before you take home the wrong pet!

Please visit my What Is A Sheltie? page, which will give a brief description of the history, original purpose, and basic characteristics of the Shetland Sheepdog. You may also wish to visit Commonly Asked Sheltie Questions. Remember to use your browser 'back' button to return, once you have visited the Sheltie "FAQ"!

Size: The size of adult shelties can vary widely. The breed is relatively young, and many small breeds (toys, spaniels, terriers, to name a few), and some large breeds (including the rough collie) were used to create what we know and love today as the Shetland Sheepdog. Though the sheltie standard calls for adult shelties to stand between 13" and 16" at the withers (shoulder), adults can range in size from 10" or less all the way to 22" or more. Weights can also vary greatly, from as few as 7 or 8 pounds to as many as 35 or 40 pounds, depending on the size of the sheltie and bone structure. The "ideal", moderate sheltie will measure about 14-1/2" to 15" and will weigh in the neighborhood of 20 to 25 pounds. An experienced, responsible breeder will be able to make a guesstimate of adult size of their puppies and usually come pretty close.

Probably the most endearing sheltie quality is the sheltie's ability to "tune in", their undying devotion and loyalty to you. Most shelties have a moderately high energy level, requiring some serious run and play time on a daily basis. They are quick to announce arrivals at the door, but can also become problematic barkers. They are protective of you and your property, and most will guard over children in the yard with an unsurpassed attentiveness, but their protectiveness must never be confused with aggressive attack tendencies; shelties are not attack dogs. The sheltie does requires human interaction, and does much better if kept as a house dog and part of the family. They are excellent foot warmers!

Now that you have gotten this far, do not be dismayed to learn there are a few more decisions to make before bringing your new bundle of fluff home with you...

Male or Female? The differences between male and female shelties are so minimal as to barely warrant discussing. However, many breeds - indeed, most of the different breeds - have distinctly differing traits between males and females. Males tend to be harder to train, more aggressive, quicker to "roam". Females tend to be smarter, and more loving and submissive. With shelties this is a load of hogwash and poppycock!

There is very little, if any, difference between the temperament and behavioral tendencies of male and female shelties. The females do generally tend to be a bit smaller, weigh less, and have less coat (hair) than the males, but this is no hard-set rule.

Some find the female shelties to be easier to train, more loving, devoted and attentive, less dominant, less aggressive. Some find the male shelties to be easier to train, more loving, devoted and attentive, less dominant, less aggressive. Truly, with shelties, it is more a matter of personal preference than actual differences between the sexes, particularly when the puppy you will be taking home will be spayed or neutered between 6 and 9 months of age.

Temperament: The next decision is on basic temperament. Even though shelties, as a breed, have their own basic temperament traits shared by most, if not all, shelties, and even though every puppy in a litter share the same sire and dam, each puppy has its own unique genetic stamp, and temperaments and personalities will differ from sheltie to sheltie.

Check out the puppies individually. Get down on the floor at "puppy level" and call the puppy to you. If the puppy quickly and happily comes to you, he likely has a strong attachment to people and would bond with you without problem. If the puppy does not come immediately, but investigates a toy before finding his way to you, he may have an independent streak which could need tweaking from time to time (may be better for an experienced sheltie hand). If he does not come at all, regardless of repeated coaxing, and appears to be shaking and fearful, he may actually be timid. If he does not come at all, and appears totally disinterested in you, he may have a problem bonding at all with people, and may remain forever aloof.

Now check them out as a litter. While at "puppy level" call the whole litter. Your results here will be a bit different, as the litter will respond not just to you, but also to littermates and dominance hierarchy. Again, you want a puppy that comes to you willingly, probably one that does not stop to smell the roses along the way, and certainly not one that ignores you entirely.

NOTE: You do not want a puppy that cowers in a corner and refuses to interact with you (timid). This is, indeed, different from the quiet or submissive puppy, and has the potential to develop some strange and sometimes dangerous behaviors. Timidity used to be a common flaw in shelties, is a genetic problem, but is one of the many great improvement strides sheltie breeders have made over the past several decades. Timidity in our shelties today is usually the result of poor or total lack of planning and consideration for temperaments when breeding.

You should be able to...
RELY ON THE BREEDER!!

If you have gotten this far, you have chosen your breeder. If you have done your homework in your search for a breeder, the breeder is going to be your best source of information regarding individual members of a litter. The breeder has watched the litter grow, develop and interact with littermates as well as people, and knows each puppy individually. She will be your best resource in choosing a puppy that will best suit your lifestyle, living arrangements, and home situation.

A quickie checklist for your search for the perfect sheltie:

Are the puppies - as well as the other dogs on the premises - clean and healthy in appearance?
Are the puppies friendly and attracted to people? Do they beg to be picked up?
Do the puppies enjoy being held? Beware the timid puppy - they may be anti-social and may grow to be fear biters.
Is the dam of the litter attractive? The sire (if available)?
Is the dam friendly? Is she willing to make friends with visitors? After about 6 weeks the dam should no longer be overly protective of the litter. Temperament is hereditary! Do NOT buy a puppy whose parent(s) do not have good temperaments!
Have the puppies been wormed, and received their first vaccinations?
Are the puppies old enough to leave the litter? Puppies should never leave the litter before 7 weeks, ideally not until 8, weeks of age. Some breeds - like shelties - do better if puppies are even a bit older - 10 to 12 weeks - when placed. Many states have laws restricting the sale of puppies before they are 7 or 8 weeks of age. Educate yourself on your state laws, and steer clear of breeders selling puppies younger than the law allows! If a breeder breaches one law, you can bet they will breach other laws as well!
Is the paperwork organized and completed?
Are you getting a complete health record for the puppy?
Have the parents been OFA certified for hip dysplasia?
Have the parents' (and in some cases the puppies') eyes been tested?
Will you receive a supply of food with instructions on care and feeding?
Will you receive a list of necessary supplies in order to properly care for the puppy?
Will you receive a list of suggested reading, to aid in your understanding of the puppy's growth, development and training?

You may also wish to visit the American Shetland Sheepdog Association's page on the Shetland Sheepdog, which offers a wealth of information on what it takes to own a sheltie.

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